Arizona Vegetable & Fruit Gardening
For The Arizona Desert Environment
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Descriptions, & Reviews.

George & Eve Delange

Arizona Soil Types
And Fertilizers To Use.

Raised Bed With 6 - 8 Week Old Asparagus & Corn Growing Together. Soil pH & All Other Nutrients Are Perfect. You Can See The Effects Of Proper Soil, Nutrients, Micronutrients, & Fertilizer. Proper Soil Testing Had To Be Performed On A Regular Basis.

We Buy Our Hard To Find Fruit Trees For Yarnell Arizona At Nature Hills Nursery.
We Have Several Nice Fruit Trees Growing In Yarnell, Arizona.
They Will Do Well In Other Similar Elevations In Arizona. ie.. Prescott, Cottonwood, Camp Verde, Sedona.
Cameo & Fuji Apples! Yummm! Click The Nature Hills Nursery Link To View.

Most Arizona soils developed under desert or scrub vegetation. This factor makes Arizona Soil much different than most of the soil found in other parts of the United States. But, don't despair, there are ways to improve our soil to make it compatable with vegetable and fruit garden plants! In the United States, soils can be classified based on a taxonomic system developed by the USDA Soil Conservation Service Soil Survey between 1951 and 1973. This system divides all soils into separate orders; it divides each order into different sub-orders, each sub-order into distinct great groups, and so forth, down into individual soil families. In the state of Arizona, you can find six of the 12 soil orders of the USDA Soil Conservation Service Soil Survey. They are called: Alfisols, Aridisols, Entisols, Inceptisols, Mollisols, & Vertisols. The other soil orders are: Andisols, Gelisols, Histosols, Oxisols, Spodosols, & Ultisols. A general description of Arizona's soil orders are: Alfisols: You can find alfisol, a light, clay soil, primarily among Arizona's higher elevations. Typically, alfisols occur in moderate climates, both in semi-arid and subhumid places, and in forests and wooded lands. Two of the principal suborders found within Arizona are the boralfs and ustalfs. The alfisols are generally arable, holding enough water to foster plant growth. Aridisols: Generally, aridisols can be found in Arizona's drier areas. They have relatively high levels of calcium carbonate and low levels of organic material, making them ideal for only the most drought- and salt-tolerant of desert plants. Otherwise, aridisol soils' low humus content makes agriculture difficult without additional irrigation. Entisols: Found throughout Arizona, entisols typically have a moderate amount of organic matter and are found in relatively "young" landscapes or dry areas, where further soil formation has not been possible. Entisols primarily form in areas that are highly resistant to weathering. Inceptisols: The inceptisol order of soils forms relatively fast, developed from very minimal weathering of the parent material. In Arizona, the inceptisols are mostly found in subhumid areas. Throughout the world, inceptisols can be found in a broad range of environments, from deltas to tundra to forests. Of all soil orders, the inceptisols have the faintest demarcation between "horizons," the technical term for layers of soil. Mollisols: Mollisols are found among Arizona's higher elevations. They can typically be found in semi-arid and subhumid climates, and are often covered by grasses or trees. Mollisols lend themselves especially well for agricultural use, having a humus-rich uppermost layer. They support grains especially well, and are often found in "breadbasket" regions where cereals are traditionally grown. Vertisols: Vertisol soils have a clay texture throughout all their layers. Vertisols feature high levels of montmorillonite, a mineral that dramatically expands and contracts with varying moisture levels. This causes vertisol soils to evidence high levels of cracking across the surface. This property of vertisol soil also poses practical difficulties when constructing or farming on the soil's surface. Aside from the unique structural complication, vertisols make excellent soils for agricultural uses, particularly for rice growing. We suggest that you learn which soil type or order you have or that you do a soil test with a soil test kit and make changes to the soil by fertilizer or ammendments to bring it within the requirement that you need in order to grow a particular type of vegetable in your own personal garden. We personally make sure that we test our garden soil at least on a yearly schedule, as our soil can change according to ammendments that have been added to the soil during the prior year. But, we try to test our garden soil on a weekly schedule, as our soil temperature constantly changes according to day and night time temperatures, and the times and seasons of the year. This is very important, ie... many vegetable plant seeds will not germinate until the soil temperature is at a specific temperature. We have links on this page to Amazon, where you can purchase soil testing kits. We find them to be very helpful. There are many differing opinions among garden experts concerning the merits of fertilizing with manures or other organic fertilizers versus �chemical� fertilizers. Excellent gardens can be grown using either method. Soil bacteria and fungi must act on the organic nutrient sources to change them into forms that plants can use. The major consideration in the use of organic sources is to apply the fertilizer materials far enough in advance to allow for the breakdown of the substances to ensure that an adequate supply of nutrients will be released & available when the growing plant needs it. Plants really do not differentiate between nutrients from either �organic� or �chemical� fertilizers. The forms of nutrients absorbed by plant roots from both sources of fertilizer is exactly identical. But, It should be noted that regular additions of organic materials can improve the tilth, or the state of aggregation of a soil especially in relation to its suitability for crop growth, and the water and nutrient-holding capacities of soils. In cases where predominantly organic fertilizers are used, a judicious use of supplemental chemical fertilizers will allow the gardener to take advantage of the benefits of added organic materials without compromising the availability of essential plant nutrients. Fertilizer contains many different kinds and sizes of particles, ranging from those visible to the unaided eye to particles so small that they can only be seen with the aid of a very powerful (electron) microscope. This mineral material comprises about 45% to 50% of the total volume. Organic material makes up about less then 5% of the volume and may contain both plant and animal residues in varying stages of decomposition. Under ideal or near-ideal moisture conditions for growing plants, soil pore spaces contain about 25% air and 25% water based on the total volume of soil. The content (analysis) of most fertilizers is designated by federal law with three numbers that appear on the fertilizer package and indicate the percent nitrogen, phosphate, and potash that it contains. Examples: 15-10-5 fertilizer contains 15% nitrogen, 10% phosphate and 5% potash: 21-0-0 fertilizer contains 21% nitrogen, but no phosphate or potash. Here is the Fertilizer Nutrient Analysis of some very comon fertilizers: Ammonium phosphate: 16-20-0 Ammonium sulfate: 21-0-0 Urea: 46-0-0 Triple superphosphate: 0-45-0 Application Methods: There are different methods of applying fertilizer depending on its formulation and the crop needs. The following terms describe the way fertilizer may be applied to a garden area. Broadcast: The material is scattered uniformly over the surface of the soil before the garden is planted. Nutrients are more readily available to plant roots if fertilizers are worked into the upper 3� to 4� of the soil. Band: Fertilizer is placed in a trench about 2-3� deep. The corner of a hoe works well to make the trench. Seeds are sown 1-�� to 2� above and to the side of the fertilizer. The plant roots grow into the fertilizer band and quickly absorb the nutrients. Side-dress: After the plant is growing, additional fertilizer may be needed for some crops. Nitrogen is the usual side-dress element, but if other nutrients have been omitted from earlier applications, it�s �better late than never.� The fertilizer material is placed close to the growing plant. Nitrogen is very soluble and need not be mixed into the soil. A �complete� fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphate and potash should be lightly scratched in, but take care to avoid damaging plant roots that are close to the surface. Irrigation water must be applied before the plant can absorb the nutrients. Keep fertilizer granules off the leaves to prevent burning. Transplant Solutions: Diluted solutions of complete fertilizers high in phosphate promote quick recovery and early growth of transplants, especially in the early spring when soils are cool. Foliar Feeding: Foliar feeding is used when insufficient fertilizer was used before planting; a quick growth response is wanted; micronutrients (such as iron or zinc) are locked into the soil; or when the soil is too cold for the plants to use the fertilizer applied to the soil. Foliar-applied nutrients are absorbed and used by the plant rapidly. Absorption begins within minutes after application and with most nutrients is completed within 1-2 days. Foliar nutrition can be a supplement to soil nutrition at a critical time for the plant, but not a substitute. At transplanting an application of phosphorus spray helps establish young plants in cold soils. For perennial plants early spring growth is usually limited by cold soil, even when the air is warm. Under such conditions soil microorganisms are not active enough to convert nutrients into forms available for roots to absorb; yet, if the nutrients were available the plants could grow. Nutrients sprayed on the foliage will provide needed nutrients immediately, allowing growth to begin. Drip or Sprinkler Irrigation: Soluble fertilizers can be applied through drip or sprinkler systems. Various injectors are available to facilitate adding fertilizer to water via irrigation lines. Inject fertilizer during the second half of the irrigation set to reduce the chance of nitrogen leaching. Nutrients: Nitrogen And Phosphorus: Nitrogen and phosphorus are the two nutrients most often needed in Arizona�s garden soils. Nitrogen produces a deep green color in foliage and promotes overall plant growth. It usually needs to be applied every year because rain or irrigation will leach much of the nitrogen not used by plants. Nitrogen amounts recommended in the following tables will be adequate to get newly planted seeds or transplants growing well. Up to one-third of the recommended fertilizers may be applied in a band below and to the side of the seed. The remainder should be broadcast prior to planting. All organic materials should be broadcast prior to planting and worked into the top 6� to 8� of soil. About 4-5 weeks after planting, some plants may begin to show a pale green or yellow color and a slower rate of growth. At this point a side-dress of 4 tablespoons (T) urea or 8 T ammonium sulfate per 10� of row should be made every two to three weeks as needed. For uniform application, dissolve fertilizer in water and apply the solution evenly with a watering can. Corn, broccoli, cauliflower, potatoes, lettuce, carrots, and beets usually require this additional nitrogen. To avoid excessive foliar growth and poor fruiting, do not apply extra nitrogen to peas, tomatoes, or squash. Over-irrigation will leach nitrogen from the root zone and may result in the need for additional side-dressings of nitrogen later in the season. Organic Nitrogen: Manures are extremely variable in their nitrogen content. As little as 75 lbs. of poultry droppings or as much as 800 lbs. of manure mixed with straw may be required for each 1,000 sq. ft. Be sure to use composted manure, not fresh. Blood meal applied at 15 to 20 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. is also a good source of organic nitrogen. The application of municipal sewage sludge is recommended only if there is certainty that heavy metal contamination will not result. Caution: Manures often contain weed seeds. Some of these weeds may be very difficult to control. In addition, feed-lot manures in particular can contain high levels of soluble salts. It may be advisable to test new sources of manure for salt content before applying it to a garden. Contact your County Extension Agent to obtain a list of agricultural laboratories operating in Arizona, which could determine the salt content of the manure. Phosphate is essential for vigorous early season growth of seedlings. It moves very slowly in the soil and best results are obtained if phosphate is banded 2� below the seed or transplant at planting. Table 1 lists some of the more common nitrogen and phosphate-containing fertilizers that are recommended for gardens in Arizona. A soil test for nitrate-nitrogen, and for phosphate, are helpful in knowing which types and what quantities of fertilizers are needed. Tests for these nutrients are normally reported as parts per million (ppm). Micronutrients: Zinc: Deficiencies of zinc can occur on a few sensitive crops. Corn, beans, pecans, and grapes are the most susceptible. A zinc deficiency is indicated by broad yellow and green striping at the base of the youngest corn leaves or small reddish-brown spots on cotyledon (first) leaves of beans. A zinc deficiency in pecans and grapes will produce yellowing between the veins of leaves and a pronounced reduction in leaf size, especially at the ends of new shoots. A soil test reading of below 1.0 ppm zinc may also indicate the need for additional zinc for these crops. When applying zinc to vegetable gardens, broadcast about 1 pound of zinc sulfate per 1,000 sq. ft. before planting or band 1 to 2 teaspoons zinc sulfate per 10� of row at planting. For applications after planting, dissolve 1-2 teaspoons of zinc sulfate in about 1 gallon water and side-dress evenly for every 10� of row. When applying zinc to trees and vines, dissolve � ounce zinc sulfate per gallon of water and drench new foliage 2-4 times beginning in the first month after growth resumes in the spring. Iron: Deficiencies of iron are observed in some crops in many Arizona soils. Turfgrass, citrus, apples, peaches, and a variety of other ornamental and landscape plants are the types most often affected. Deficiencies of iron are characterized by yellow leaves with green veins, especially on the youngest leaves; this is called �iron chlorosis�. A soil test reading below 4 ppm iron may indicate a low level of available iron in the soil. Applications of granular iron sulfate materials before planting or liquid iron products after planting can be helpful in supplying iron for plant growth. Chelated-iron fertilizers usually remain available in the soil longer than non-chelated materials. Foliar iron applications can also be made. Apply preparation specifically for foliar sprays, others may burn the plant. Always follow label instructions carefully when using these materials. Soil Amendments: Gypsum Gypsum is a common soil amendment not usually needed in southwest soils. It is especially useful in ridding soils of excess sodium. When a soil contains too much sodium, it tends to become heavy, difficult to work , and unable to absorb water adequately. If these problems are evident, an application of gypsum is recommended. A soil test value for Exchangeable Sodium Percentage (ESP) above 10% also probably indicates the need for gypsum. When applying gypsum, broadcast 50 to 100 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. and work into the top several inches of the soil. Then apply at least 4� of water as a pre-irrigation to leach the excess sodium down through the soil and out below the root zone. Applications of gypsum may need to be repeated in following years if the problem persists. The use of gypsum will not correct all �problem� soils. It will have no effect on compacted soil caused by excessive traffic or tillage and cannot alter the texture of a natural heavy clay soil. Gypsum will not break up caliche layers. Lime: Most garden vegetables grow best if the soil pH is between 6.0 and 7.5. If the soil is too acidic, then an application of lime is recommended. Very few soils in Arizona require lime so don�t make an application unless a soil test for pH has been made. Apply 50 to 75 lbs. finely ground lime per 1,000 sq. ft. if the soil pH is below 6.0. Use the higher rate only if the pH is below 5.5. Lime should be broadcast prior to planting and worked into the surface 4-6� of soil. Sulfur: Sulfur can be applied to help reduce the pH of the highly alkaline soils (pH above 8.0). It is often difficult, however, to effectively reduce the pH of soils high in free lime (calcium carbonate) content. Nearly all of the lime must be neutralized before the soil pH will be appreciably lowered. Annual applications of 25 to 50 lbs. sulfur per 1,000 sq. ft. should be broadcast and worked into the surface 4-6� of soil, although repeated applications may be required. Only very finely ground sulfur should be used as coarsely ground products will not react quickly enough with the soil. Salinity: High levels of salinity (salts) in the soil can result in poor plant growth due to restricted availability of soil water or the toxic effect of certain salts. Plants vary in their tolerance of soil salinity. A soil test reading below 2.0 mmhos/cm (or 1,300 ppm) indicates a favorable salinity level for most garden crops. A value above 4 mmhos/cm (2,500 ppm) will probably result in poor growth of the more sensitive crops. Proper steps should be taken as soon as salt levels exceed 2.0 E. C. (Electrical Conductivity). The most effective way to correct a high salinity level is by deep irrigations using good quality water. This will leach salts out of the root zone, assuming the soil has good drainage. Sprinklers and drip systems are particularly well suited to deep irrigations and avoid water loss due to runoff. Most domestic water supplies in the metropolitan areas of Arizona are of good irrigation water quality. If you suspect high salt levels in your water, you may wish to obtain a water analysis. Contact your County Extension Agent for more information. NOTE: Applications of gypsum are not effective in reducing soil salinity. Other Nutrients: Most Arizona soils and/or irrigation waters contain quantities of all other essential plant nutrients to supply adequate levels for the growth of garden crops. NOTE: If using city water as supplied to most homes in Arizona and in other states; the water contains chlorine, which is not good for plants. NOTE: Even though we have listed the soil types found by the USDA in Arizona, because of the wide variation in elevation and climatic conditions found throughout the state there are wide differences in the types of soil profiles found. Interestingly only tropical soils are not found within Arizona. We have even found wide differences within a few feet of each other. Therefore, nothing works better in our opinion than using your own knowledge of soils and soil test kits, wherever you have a question. Here are some general comments concerning soil types and how well they may perform specifically in Arizona and some of the other places in the world. The percentage of mineral matter and organic matter in a cubic foot of surface soil varies from one soil to another, and within the same soil. Most Arizona soils have very low levels of organic matter, usually less than 1% by weight. This is due to the slow rates of organic matter production under arid conditions and the rapid rate of decomposition of organic matter when the warm soils are moistened. Content of organic matter is usually higher in soils that have not been cultivated over long periods of time. Soils that are tilled frequently or thoses with relatively small amounts of plant residues are usually lower in organic matter. Plowing and tilling the soil increases the amount of air in the soil, which increases the rate of organic matter decomposition. Soils with poor drainage or high water tables usually have a higher organic matter content than those which are well drained, because water excludes air from the soil mass. Regarding water or air in the soil, since pore spaces are filled with either air or water, the amount of air in a soil at a particular time depends on the amount of water present in the pore spaces. Immediately after a rain, there is more water and less air in the pore spaces. Conversely, in dry periods, a soil contains more air and less water. Increasing organic matter content usually increases water-holding capacity, but adding undecomposed organic material reduces water capacity until the material has partially decomposed. Most soils everywhere, generally speaking, have two or more distinct soil layers or sometimes called horizons. The principal soil layers or horizons (collectively called the soil profile) are: A, surface soil; E, the subsurface; and B, the subsoil. Beneath the soil profile lies: C, the parent material; and R, rock, which may be similar to that from which the soil developed. Many of the soils in Arizona have developed in 1. water-deposited (alluvium), 2. wind- deposited (aeolian silt or sand), or 3. gravity transported materials (colluvium). Whenever soil horizons are present , they usually differ from one another in 1. color, 2. texture, 3. consistency, and 4. structure. In addition, there are usually several considerable differences in chemical characteristics or composition. The surface and subsurface soils are usually the coarsest layers. The surface soil contains more organic matter than the other soil layers. Organic matter gives a gray, dark-brown, or black color to the surface horizon, the color imparted depending largely upon the amount of organic matter present. NOTE: Soils that are highest in organic matter usually have the darkest surface colors. The surface layer is usually most fertile and has the greatest concentration of plant roots; plants obtain much of their nutrients and water from the surface soil. This is the soil layer that almost all gardens are in. Any human activity which removes or degrades the surface soils is very serious considering the relatively higher quality of this horizon. The subsoil layer is usually finer and firmer than the surface soil. Organic matter content of the subsoil is usually much lower than that of the surface layer. The subsoil supports the surface soil and may be considered the soil reservoir, providing storage space for water and nutrients for plants, aiding in temperature regulation of the soil, and supplying air for the roots of plants. But, the subsoil can also present serious problems for those wanting to use the soil to grow plants. These include coarse sandy or gravelly layers, hardpans or caliche layers. "Caliche" is a specific type of naturally occurring hardpan layer up to six feet thick which is cemented with calcium carbonate. NOTE: In Arizona, caliche is found sometimes just a few inches below the surface soil, making it almost impossible to grow a lawn or garden. That is one of the main reasons that "Raised Gardens" are recommended for Arizona Gardening. If you are planting a tree, you MUST break through the Caliche and fill in the hole with your tree and good soil ammendments, so that the roots can grow in soil. Otherwise, your tree will not have root support and it will most likely blow over during our next monsoon season. Just drive through a few of the newer neighborhoods in Arizona after a monsoon storm and you will see numerous trees blown over because they were not planted properly. Also, the subsoil coarse sandy or gravel layers are sometimes very dry and may not supply adequate moisture for your growing plant roots. The bottom horizon, or parent material, is usually decomposed rock or other transported material that has acquired some characteristics of the subsoil and retained some characteristics of the rock or other geological material from which it weathered. It is not hard, like rock, but may show the form or structure of the original rocks or layering if it is in a water-laid deposit. The parent material influences soil texture, natural fertility, rate of decomposition (and thus rate of soil formation), alkalinity, depth, and in some cases, topography (or lay of the land) on which the soil is formed. NOTE: Once more, we suggest that you learn which soil type or order you have or that you do a soil test with a soil test kit and make changes to the soil by fertilizer or ammendments to bring it within the requirement that you need in order to grow a particular type of vegetable in your own personal garden. Also, during the growing seasons, we personally try to test our garden soil on a weekly schedule, as our soil temperature and other conditions, constantly changes according to day and night time temperatures, and the times and seasons of the year. This is very important, ie... many vegetable plant seeds will not germinate until the soil temperature is at a specific temperature. Quick Down & Dirty Summary For Clay Soils: There are many clay soils found in the Phoenix Area, So here is what we do! Note: If your topsoil has a lot of clay in it, add sand to your soil mixture. Here is a good rule of thumb guide to use. We spade up the existing soil as deeply as we can. Then for every ten square feet of bed we pour on a two cubic foot bag of soil conditioner . On top of this we add two bags of General Purpose Sand (available at home improvement stores). If we have not already done so, we also scatter a pint of garden lime and about a half-bag of hen manure on the ten square foot site. We use shovels to mix it all together and then we use a hoe & rake to make it level. We finish the job by raking the bed smooth, before watering it and placing seeds or plants into the soil. We have a new page about the cultivation and tilling of soil in Arizona for commerical growers that can be of interest to gardeners in Arizona. We can see on that page how commercial methods could be modified for Home Gardening. It is: Arizona Soil Tilling, & Cultivation.. Another great resource about soil preparation for Arizona is the Guidelines for Head Lettuce Production in Arizona. Cooperative Extension, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, University of Arizona, Tucson, Arizona.

Raised Bed With 6 - 8 Week Old Asparagus & Corn Growing Together. Soil pH & All Other Nutrients Are Perfect. You Can See The Effects Of Proper Soil, Nutrients, Micronutrients, & Fertilizer. Proper Soil Testing Had To Be Performed On A Regular Basis.
Soil Test Showing Typical Central & Southwestern Arizona Soil Conditions. Highly Alkaline or High pH. Usually Little or No Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium (or Potash). This Test Was Taken Two Years After The Soil Had Been Corrected. So Soil Correction Is An Ongoing Activity In Arizona Gardening. Arizona Vegetable & Fruit Gardening For The Arizona Desert Environment.

Caliche The Cause Of Numerous Failures Of Gardens, Orchards, & Landscapings. It Often Lurks Inches or Feet Beneath Your Lawn, Garden, or Orchard! Very Common In Arizona Soil!

The Images Shown Below, Are In Order, According To
How You Would Work The Sand Into The Clay Soil.

Use General Purpose Sand.	Add General Purpose Sand To Tilled Clay Soil.
Pour General Purpose Sand On The Clay.	Evenly Spread The Sand On The Clay.
Evenly Spade The Sand Into The Clay.	Evenly Rake The Soil To Level It.
Half Way Finished.	All Done!

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Raised Bed With 8 Week Old Strawberries. Soil pH & All Other Nutrients Are Perfect. You Can See The Effects Of Proper Soil, Nutrients, Micronutrients, & Fertilizer. Proper Soil Testing Had To Be Performed On A Regular Basis.

We Buy Our Hard To Find Fruit Trees For Yarnell Arizona At Nature Hills Nursery.
We Have Several Nice Fruit Trees Growing In Yarnell, Arizona.
They Will Do Well In Other Similar Elevations In Arizona. ie.. Prescott, Cottonwood, Camp Verde, Sedona.
Cameo & Fuji Apples! Yummm! Click The Nature Hills Nursery Link To View.

Click Here To See Free Arizona Sonoran Desert Plants Native Food Recipes.

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