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Allium sativum.
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| Garlic. Allium sativum. Growing In The Spring. All Photos Courtesy: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. |
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| Garlic Leaves. Allium sativum. Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. | Garlic Bulbs. Allium sativum. Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. |
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| Garlic Sprout. Allium sativum. Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. | Garlic Sprout. Allium sativum. Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. |
| Bumblebee On Garlic Sprout. Allium sativum. Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. | Garlic Bulbis. Allium sativum. Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. |
| Garlic Cyme. Allium sativum. Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. | Garlic Seeds. Allium sativum. Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. |
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Garlic.
We wish to thank Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia for some of the information, and images on our page. We share information, images, and donate to Wikipedia. Allium sativum, commonly known as garlic, is a species in the onion genus, Allium. Its close relatives include the onion, shallot, leek, chive, and rakkyo. With a history of human use of over 7,000 years, garlic is native to central Asia, and has long been a staple in the Mediterranean region, as well as a frequent seasoning in Asia, Africa, and Europe. It was known to Ancient Egyptians, and has been used for both culinary and medicinal purposes
The garlic plant has a fan of hollow, bluish-green leaves and the bulb at the base of the plant begins to swell when a certain day-length is reached. In the autumn, the foliage dies down and the outer layers of the bulb become dry and brittle. The crop is harvested and dried and the garlics are ready for use or storage. The crop is prone to attack by a number of pests and diseases, particularly the onion fly, the onion eelworm, and various fungi cause rotting. An garlic plant is composed of leaves which arise alternately from a small fattened stem, or base plate, so that older leaves are on the outside and younger leaves on the inside of the stem. Each leaf is composed of a photosynthetic leaf blade and a non-photosynthetic, storage leaf base (scale). During the growth of the plant the leaf scales thicken and form the characteristic bulb. Garlics have a determinate growth habit. At the onset of bulbing, leaf sheaths swell, bladeless bulb scales are initiated and these swell to form the central storage tissue of the bulb. Leaf blades initiated prior to bulbing develop to full expansion and the green top lodges at `top down'. Mature garlic bulbs can range in size from 5 mm to over 60 mm bulb diameter. Garlics are cultivated and used around the world. As a food item, they are usually served cooked, as a vegetable or part of a prepared savoury dish, but can also be eaten raw or used to make pickles or chutneys. They are pungent when chopped and contain certain chemical substances which irritate the eyes. The garlic plant has been grown and selectively bred in cultivation for at least 5,000 years. It is a biennial plant, but is usually grown as an annual. Modern varieties typically grow to a height of 15 to 45 cm (6 to 18 in). The leaves are yellowish-green and grow alternately in a flattened, fan-shaped swathe. They are fleshy, hollow, and cylindrical, with one flattened side. They are at their broadest about a quarter of the way up beyond which they taper towards a blunt tip. The base of each leaf is a flattened, usually white sheath that grows out of a basal disc. From the underside of the disc, a bundle of fibrous roots extends for a short way into the soil. As the garlic matures, food reserves begin to accumulate in the leaf bases and the bulb of the garlic swells. In the autumn, the leaves die back and the outer scales of the bulb become dry and brittle, and this is when the crop is normally harvested. If left in the soil over winter, the growing point in the middle of the bulb begins to develop in the spring. New leaves appear and a long, stout, hollow stem expands, topped by a bract protecting a developing inflorescence. The inflorescence takes the form of a globular umbel of white flowers with parts in sixes. The seeds are glossy black and triangular in cross section Garlics are best cultivated in fertile soils that are well-drained. Sandy loams are good as they are low in sulphur, while clayey soils usually have a high sulphur content and produce pungent bulbs. Garlics require a high level of nutrients in the soil. Phosphorus is often present in sufficient quantities, but may be applied before planting because of its low level of availability in cold soils. Nitrogen and potash can be applied at intervals during the growing season, the last application of nitrogen being at least four weeks before harvesting. Bulbing garlicss are day-length sensitive; their bulbs begin growing only after the number of daylight hours has surpassed some minimal quantity. Most traditional European Garlics are referred to as "long-day" onions, producing bulbs only after 14 hours or more of daylight occurs. Southern European and North African varieties are often known as "intermediate-day" types, requiring only 12�13 hours of daylight to stimulate bulb formation. Finally, "short-day" Garlics, which have been developed in more recent times, are planted in mild-winter areas in the fall and form bulbs in the early spring, and require only 11�12 hours of daylight to stimulate bulb formation. Garlics are a cool-weather crop and can be grown in USDA zones 3 to 9. Hot temperatures or other stressful conditions cause them to "bolt", meaning that a flower stem begins to grow. Garlic varieties also have different requirements as to the number of hours of daylight required to make a bulb. If the seed catalog lists the onion as long day, it sets bulbs when it receives 15-16 hours of daylight and is used to produce garlics in Northern summers. Short day varieties set bulbs with about 12 hours of daylight and are used in the deep South for winter production. Garlics may be grown from seed or from sets. Onion seeds are short-lived and fresh seeds germinate better. The seeds are sown thinly in shallow drills, thinning the plants in stages. In suitable climates, certain cultivars can be sown in late summer and autumn to overwinter in the ground and produce early crops the following year garlic sets are produced by sowing seed thickly in early summer in poor soil and the small bulbs produced are harvested in the autumn. These bulbs are planted the following spring and grow into mature bulbs later in the year. Certain cultivars are used for this purpose and these may not have such good storage characteristics as those grown directly from seed. Routine care during the growing season involves keeping the rows free of competing weeds, especially when the plants are young. The plants are shallow-rooted and do not need a great deal of water when established. Bulbing usually takes place after 12 to 18 weeks. The bulbs can be gathered when needed to eat fresh, but if they will be kept in storage, they should be harvested after the leaves have died back naturally. In dry weather, they can be left on the surface of the soil for a few days to dry out properly, then they can be placed in nets, roped into strings, or laid in layers in shallow boxes. They should be stored in a well-ventilated, cool place such as a shed.
ISilver-white wrappers over rose-colored cloves. Fast-growing soft-necked variety typically produces 14-18 cloves per bulb head. Use in your favorite dishes to add rich, full flavor. Good for braiding. Stores for up to 8 months. Open pollinated. Harvest when lower leaves turn brown. Matures in 120 days.
One of the biggest, these garlic bulbs will have 4-6 cloves each, and each bulb will weigh up to a pound or more. The cloves have a mild taste, so it�s perfect for adding flavor without too much bite. And the bulbs are highly decorative, too.
Mid-season garlic with rich, pungent flavor. Highly productive variety yields large, white soft-neck bulbs. Tight skin encourages better keeping. Stores up to nine months. Disease-resistant. Open pollinated. Harvest when lower leaves turn brown. Matures in approximately 100 days.
This early-season, soft-necked variety has a smooth white paper over purple-tinted cloves. Mild flavor enhances soups, sides, and other home-cooked favorites. Fast-spreading growth habit. Stores well. Open pollinated. Harvest when lower leaves turn brown. Matures in 90-150 days.
Taste is unique, although often compared to a mild onion. Attractive, blue-green tops complete tender white sheaths. Reaches 12-14 inches in length.
The gourmet onion. Golden-skinned, white-fleshed relative of the onion. Taste is like onion with a hint of garlic; bold with hints of sweet. Prolific yields. Use fresh in salads, in saut�es, or whenever green onions are called for. Each bulb yields 3-4 shallots. Pull bolting plants and use as scallions. Harvest in summer after leaves wither. Stores well.
Gourmet flavor and easy to grow! Red-skinned, pink-fleshed member of the allium family. Taste is similar to garlic and onion but more mild and rich. Use fresh in salads, in saut�es, and roasted. Each bulb yields 3-4 shallots. Not prone to bolting. Harvest in summer after leaves wither. Stores well.
1. Determine the last expected spring frost date for your area. Plan to plant your garlic plants after that date. Several days below 50�F or one or two days below 30�F will cause sets to bolt, so do not plant too early. Garlic varieties also have different requirements as to the number of hours of daylight required to make a bulb. If the seed catalog lists the onion as long day, it sets bulbs when it receives 15-16 hours of daylight and is used to produce garlics in Northern summers. Short day varieties set bulbs with about 12 hours of daylight and are used in the deep South for winter production. 2. Cultivate your planting area to break up any hard soil, keeping your rows about 2 feet apart. Garlic varieties prefer well-draining, sandy, loose soils with plenty of organic matter. Try to avoid clay soils, they produce pungent onion bulbs. 3.Garlics are heavy feeders. If a soil test has not been taken, make a preplant application of 4 to 5 pounds 10-10-10 per 100 square feet before planting. Use starter solution for transplants. Sidedress 1 to 2 weeks after bulb enlargement begins using 3 tablespoons 33-0-0 per 10' row. AGAIN NOTE; Clay soils usually have a high sulphur content and produce pungent bulbs. ALSO, Avoid using fertilizers high in sulfur. 4. Purchase certified garlic plants from your local garden center or nursery. 5. Garlics should be spaced 1 to 6 inches by 12 to 24 inches for standard spacing; 4 inches by 4 inches for wide rows. Rows should be 2 feet apart. 6. Water your garlics once or twice a week when the soil feels dry to the touch. Do Not Spray Water On Your Plants. Garlics have shallow root systems so they only need a light watering to maintain constant soil moisture. Water sufficiently to moisten the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. Mulching can help to provide uniform moisture, conserve water and reduce weeds. 7. Monitor your garlic plants for disease and pest problems. Garlics grown by spraying water in Arizona, often suffer from late blight, which can be treated with a fungicide. Control common pests such as snails, potato tubermoth and aphids by sprinkling nontoxic diatomaceous earth around the affected garlic plants. 8. Garlics should be ready for harvest in about 100 to 120 days for mature bulbs. days after transplanting. When starting from seed, expect 100 to 120 days to maturity. Harvest garlics when they reach full size. Garlics should be harvested when about two-thirds of the tops have fallen over. Careful handling to avoid bruising helps control storage rots. Garlics may be pulled and left in the field for several days to dry then cured in a well ventilated attic or porch for one to two weeks out of direct sun. Tops may be left on or cut off; but leave at least one inch of the top when storing. Thorough curing will increase storage life.
Reduce disease problems by:
Pests Of Garlic In Arizona:
To control thrips�tiny insects about as fat as a sewing needle�take a dark piece of paper into the garden and knock the garlic tops against it; if thrips are present, you will spot their tan-colored bodies on the paper. A couple of treatments with insecticidal soap kills them. Follow the package directions. Spray the plants twice, three days apart, and the thrips should disappear. Garlic Maggots: Cover your emerging onion crop with a fine mesh netting. Seal it by mounding soil around the edges. The garlic maggot likes to lay its eggs at the base of plants, so the netting should prevent that. You should also keep mulch away because the insects like decaying organic matter, and make sure you completely harvest your garlics as the season progresses. Onion maggots are usually a problem in very rainy periods, so these precautions may be unnecessary if you have a dry season.
Beneficial Insects Of Garlics In Arizona:
Not all insects found in our gardens, & orchards are pests. Many organisms benefit the grower by eating or parasitizing pests in the orchard. These organisms are known as beneficials, natural enemies, or biological control agents. They may be native or introduced from other areas. Beneficial natural enemies (insects and mites) that may occur in our gardens, & orchards could be classified as predators or parasitoids. Predators are those that attack, kill, and feed directly on a pest (prey). Examples of common garden, or orchard predators are ladybeetles, flies, lacewings, wasps, bugs, ants, spiders, and predator mites. Parasitoids are insects that lay eggs on or in a pest (host). The developing larva lives and feeds on the host, parasitizing and eventually killing it. Examples include parasitic wasps such as the egg parasite, Trichogramma sp. Bees are a different class of beneficial insects in the garden or orchard in that they benefit the grower by aiding pollination. It is important that growers are able to recognize, identify, and conserve beneficials in their gardens, & orchards. Conservation of beneficial organisms is a basic tenet of an ecologically sound pest management strategy. Conservation or enhancement of beneficials can be achieved through judicious use of pesticides such as spraying only when and where needed, accurate timing of sprays, and selecting pesticides that are least toxic to beneficials. For Example: Many growers now place colonies of the Blue Orchard Mason bees in their orchards to pollinate their crops for maximum production.
Quick Notes:
Type: The part that is eaten is usually the bulb, but sometimes the leaves are eaten. Bulbs are defined as underground-modified leaf shoots with modified scales or buds.
Height: About 1 - 2 feet.
Spread: About 1 - 2 feet wide.
Flowers: A Cyme, which is a flat-topped inflorescence in which the central flowers open first, followed by the peripheral flowers. The Iinflorescence is White, Yellow, Pink, or occasionally Purple. Flower petal length 3�4.5 mm Petal fusionthe perianth parts are separate. The position of the ovary is above the point of the petal and/or sepal attachment.
Seeds: Glossy black, & triangular in cross section. Small Seeds (1.05 to 1.16 mm) or Large Seeds (1.17 to 1.36 mm).
Fruit: The fruit is a capsule (splits along two or more seams, apical teeth or pores when dry, to release two or more seeds). Fruit Length Up to 2.5 mm.
Blooming Time: Spring. Flower initiation starts only after a juvenile phase, when the plant has a minimum number of 4 - 14 leaves, including leaf initials.
Leaves: The green leaves are growing only at the base of the plant (basal). The leaf blade is linear (very narrow with more or less parallel sides); they have a hollow center. Leaf blade length is 100�500 mm.
Elevation: 0 - 9,600 feet.
Hardiness:
Soil pH requirements:
Light: Full Sun.
Habitat: Mulched areas. Well-drained soil with a 5.8 and 6.5 pH. According to Clemson University.
Native: Native to Western Asia.
Miscellaneous: In Yarnell, Arizona. Hardy Temp: 32�F. Water regularly; do not overwater.
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