Olmecoid Heads. Monte Alto Archaeological Site. La Democracia, Guatemala.

LA DEMOCRACIA population 4200 elevation 165m South of Siquinala 9.5km along the road to Puerto San Jose, is La Democracia, a nondescript Pacific Slope town that's hot most of the time. Like Santa Lucia Cotzumalguapa, La Democracia is in the midst of a region populated from early times -according to some archaeologist�s -by cultures with mysterious connections to Mexico's Gulf Coast. At the archaeological site called Monte Alto, on the outskirts of town, huge basalt heads have been found. Though cruder, the heads resemble those carved by the Olmecs near Veracruz several thousand years ago. Today these great Olmecoid heads are arranged around La Democracia's main plaza. As you come into town from the highway, follow signs to the museo, which will lead you left, then left again, and yet left again. Facing the plaza, along with the church and the modest Palacio Municipal, is the small, modem Museo Ruben Chevez Van Dome, with other fascinating archaeological finds. The star of the show is an exquisite jade mask. Smaller figures, 'yokes' used in the ball game, relief carvings and other objects make up the rest of this important small collection. On the walls are overly dramatic paintings of Olmecoid scenes. A rear room has more paintings and lots of potsherds only an archaeologist could love. The museum is open 8 am to noon and 2 to 5 pm; US $0.50. La Democracia has no places to stay and only a few basic eateries; it's best to bring your own food and buy drinks at the plaza. Cafe Maritza, next to the museum, is a picture-perfect hot-tropics hangout with a rockola (jukebox) blasting music and a small crew of locals sipping beers. We used Clark Tours and they were excellent. No attempt will be made to explain each photo.