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Peach Trees: We wish to thank Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia for some of the information on this page. We share images and information with Wikipedia. The scientific name persica, of Prunus persica, along with the word "peach,", derives from an early European belief that peaches were native to Persia (now Iran). Its English name derives originally from the Latin malum persicum, "Persian apple", which became the French p�che, then peach in Middle English. The modern botanical consensus is that they originated in China, circa 2000 BC. and were introduced to Persia, and the Mediterranean region, along the Silk Road, before Christian times. Peaches were mentioned in Chinese writings as far back as the 10th century BC and were a favoured fruit of kings and emperors. Today's study shows that the history of the actual cultivation of peaches in China dates back to 1,100 BC.[6] The botanical name is derived from the Greek word for the fruit after it was introduced into the Mediterranean region through Persia and from China. Cultivated peaches are divided into clingstones and freestones, depending on whether the flesh sticks to the stone or not; both can have either white or yellow flesh. Peaches with white flesh typically are very sweet with little acidity, while yellow-fleshed peaches typically have an acidic tang coupled with sweetness, though this also varies greatly. Both colours often have some red on their skin. Low-acid white-fleshed peaches are the most popular kinds in China, Japan, and neighbouring Asian countries, while Europeans and North Americans have historically favoured the acidic, yellow-fleshed kinds. The horticulturist George Minifie supposedly brought the first peaches from England to its North American colonies in the early 17th century, planting them at his Estate of Buckland in Virginia. Various American Indian tribes are credited with spreading the peach tree across the United States, taking seeds along with them and planting as they roved the country. Although Thomas Jefferson had peach trees at Monticello, United States farmers did not begin commercial production until the 19th century in Maryland, Delaware, Georgia and finally Virginia. California today raises 65 percent of peaches grown for commercial production in the United States,[10] but the states of South Carolina, New Jersey, Georgia, Michigan, Pennsylvania and Washington also grow a significant amount. Italy, China, India, and Greece are the major producers of peaches outside of the United States. In 2010, a team of researchers at Clemson University, in South Carolina, announced they had sequenced the peach tree genome (doubled haploid Lovell). A medium peach is 75 g (2.6 oz). It should have 30 Cal, 7 g of carbohydrate (6 g sugars and 1 g fibre), 1 g of protein, 140 mg of potassium, and 8% of the daily value (DV) for vitamin C. Generally speaking peach trees produce flowers in March - June, they bear fruit in August - October, sometimes through December. Generally speaking peach trees grow and bear good fruit on loamy and sandy loam soils, as well as on sandy soils with the addition of organic fertilizations. Normally their growth and development on saline, swampy and peaty soils is not good. Their life expectancy averages about 15 to 20 years, with rare exceptions lasting to 30 years. Peach trees are usually offered by nurseries in 2 distinct sizes. Dwarf varieties get to be 5 to 8 feet tall, and standard varieties get between 12 and 15 feet tall. Some very old peach trees are known to become even taller. The size variations allows for peach trees to be planted in small spaces and easier harvesting. When selecting a peach tree, the climatic zone the tree is going to grow in is an important factor. Almost all peaches are self-fertile and require no pollinators. They will set heavy crops on single trees, which need heavy and aggressive thinning early in the season for best fruit size. Maintain good vigor in peaches by pruning every year, and fertilizing moderately. Aim for 1-3 feet of new growth a year. Fertilize early in the season, so that growth is well hardened off before fall and winter cold weather. When selecting a peach tree, after you consider where it will grow best, consider it's taste. Fresh fruit is simply better and tastier than the bin stored commercial pears that are sold in supermarkets. After all, it's taste is the most important thing to you! Here Are Some Of The More Popular Eating Types Of Peaches: We have placed links, at the end of each description; to Nature Hills Nursery, where you can brouse and see photos of the peaches being described. We have personally purchased Trees from Nature Hills Nursery, and found their trees to be in perfect condition, and their customer service to be excellent! There is no obligation to purchase, if you click on their link. Belle of Georgia, Prunus persica, The Peach, Belle of Georgia, Prunus persica, produces large, firm, highly flavored fruit with brilliant red flowering. The beautiful springtime blossoms and attractive leaves makes it a valuable landscaping trees. This peach tree proves that edibles can be both ornamental and delicious! In late summer, its large, rosy-red peaches hold sweet, succulent white freestone flesh that's perfect for eating right off the tree, baking in pies, and canning for winter enjoyment. A fast grower, Belle of Georgia will reach a mature height and width of 12 to 14 feet. For best fruiting, provide a well-drained soil in full sun. It requires about 800-850 hours of chilling. Here is the best part! Belle of Georgia is a vigorous tree that is very resistant to bacterial spot, and moderately resistant to brown rot! The two most difficult peach tree diseases to control. Belle of Georgia is our very best, first choice of peach trees! Lewis A. Rumph introduced the Belle of Georgia, which he named for Mrs. Belle Hall, mother of Mrs. J. N. Neel of Macon, Georgia. Both the Elberta and the Georgia Belle are reported as coming from seeds of the Chinese Cling. In 1886. Here is a link to the Nature Hills Nursery; where you can order the Belle of Georgia Peach Tree. After you reach their page, simply click on Peach! If you click, there is no obligation to buy! Order Belle of Georgia Peach Trees. And More!. You will leave delange.org. Elberta Peach, Prunus persica, The Elberta Peach tree has very large fruit.But it is the best known yellow canning peach. Its skin is red blushed, over a deep golden yellow color. Elberta is a high quality eating and canning peach. Elberta peaches areknown to have the smallest pit-to-fruit ratio of any peach tree. It�s as sweet a peach as you can imagine. Elberta used to be the "Queen of Peaches" before the Redhaven was developed in 1940 by Dr. Stanley Johnston; but if you are interested in sweet, juicy, full flavored fruit, its still a great choice! Along with the delicious fruit, it�s a beautiful tree. In the spring, its rose-red blossoms will fill the air with fragrance. And it grows well from Zone 5 all the way through the northern portion of Zone 9. The elberta peach on Lovell rootstock can be kept to any height by summer pruning. Here is a link to the Nature Hills Nursery; where you can order the Elberta Peach Tree. After you reach their page, simply click on Peach! If you click, there is no obligation to buy! Order Elberta Peach Trees. And More!. You will leave delange.org. Frost, Prunus persica 'Frost', The Frost Peach tree is a freestone with light red blush over greenish yellow. Frost is delicious, excellent for eating fresh or for canning. Frost has a showy pink spring bloom and is heavy bearing. Frost peach blossoms appear during late winter and in early spring along grey branches, before its leaves emerge from the dormant season. Frost is an extremely vigorous tree and it requires fertile, well drained soils. At about 3 or 4 years of age it begins to bear large crops and reach peak productivity at about 8 to 12 years of age. 'Frost' is very cold-hardy. It's greatest claim to fame is Leaf Curl resistance! Here is a link to the Nature Hills Nursery; where you can order the Frost Peach Tree. After you reach their page, simply click on Peach! If you click, there is no obligation to buy! Order Frost Peach Trees. And More!. You will leave delange.org. Hale-Haven, Prunus persica, The Hale-Haven Peach tree is a high quality peach that has a deep orange color with deep blushes of carmine. The brilliant color of the fruit appears several days before the fruit ripens. It ripens about three weeks after Redhaven or a couple weeks before Elberta.The pulp of the Hale Haven peach is firm, juicy, very sweet and richly flavored, becoming fully ripe in about August. The Hale-Haven peach is a freestone peach has an excellent flavor so is good for desserts, canning and freezing. It is easy to grow. Halehaven was developed & introduced in 1932, by Dr. Stanley Johnston in Michigan, who bred most of the famous "Haven" peaches. It is still commercially produced in some areas of the country in limited quantities. Here is a link to the Nature Hills Nursery; where you can order the Hale-Haven Peach Tree. After you reach their page, simply click on Peach! If you click, there is no obligation to buy! Order Hale-Haven Peach Trees. And More!. You will leave delange.org. Harken, Prunus persica 'Harken', is said to be the best flavored peach of all! Harken is hardy and widely adaptable. Harken is very sweet and it bears a good crop of large freestone peaches. For canning, pick Harken fruit before it is table ripe. The Harken peach tree is admired as much for its beauty and fragrant blossoms as it is for its fruit. Harken ripens in early August. At about 3 or 4 years of age it begins to bear large crops and reach its peak productivity at about 8 to 12 years. On the down side; Harken cannot tolerate extreme winter cold or late frost. Peach leaf curl, brown rot, peach scab and peach tree borer can be a problem. This is not one of the peach trees that we recommend! Here is a link to the Nature Hills Nursery; where you can order the Harken Peach Tree. After you reach their page, simply click on Peach! If you click, there is no obligation to buy! Order Harken Peach Trees. And More!. You will leave delange.org. Honey Babe, Prunus persica, is a large, rich, firm, sweet, freestone peach; with a deep red over yellow skin. Its flesh is orange, speckled with red, and it has a superb flavor. Honey Babe is excellent for fresh eating. This genetic dwarf tree grows very slowly into a wide, ornamental bush. It displays showy, pink blossoms and bears when young, usually the same year it is planted. It ripens in mid July. Light pruning during the summer and winter is required for best quality. Bred in California & developed by Floyd Zaiger, this dwarf peach asks for far less winter chilling than many other varieties, making it suitable for milder climates. It requires 500-600 chilling hours. Honey Babe is self-fertile, but has better yields if pollinated with Nectar Babe. Ideal for home landscapes and smaller gardens, it bears yellow, red-tinged, freestone peaches with firm, sweet, orange flesh. Its succulent fruit is highly valued for canning, freezing, and fresh eating. Here is a link to the Nature Hills Nursery; where you can order the Honey Babe Peach Tree. After you reach their page, simply click on Peach! If you click, there is no obligation to buy! Order Honey Babe Peach Trees. And More!. You will leave delange.org. Loring, Prunus persica 'Loring', is a very attractive, large yellow peach with a hint on red blush. It has very firm, melting yellow flesh with excellent flavor. It has been a taste test winner! It is freestone and ripens in mid-season about midway between Redhaven and Elberta. It has gained a good reputation as one of the better eating peaches. It has a reputation as not being quite as hardy as other peach varieties, so it is best in warmer areas.. Here is a link to the Nature Hills Nursery; where you can order the Loring Peach Tree. After you reach their page, simply click on Peach! If you click, there is no obligation to buy! Order Loring Peach Trees. And More!. You will leave delange.org. O'Henry, Prunus persica, is a strong, vigorous, heavy bearing, and self-fruitful peach tree. O'Henry ripens from early to mid-August in Arizona. This is brightly colored, large peach with only a slight fuzz. The flesh is yellow, sweet and juicy with a little red streaking. The fruit is very firm and will keep well. Its semi-freestone fruit is sweet and juicy like Babcock. It is a popular fresh market variety that is now available for home planting. It is a leaf curl-resistant variety of peach, that was tested at the WSU research station at Mt. Vernon, Washington. O'Henry is a peach that freezes well and requires 750 hours of chilling. It was bred by Grant Merrill and is believed to be an open pollinated seedling of Merrill Bonaza, perhaps crossed with a nectarine. It was introduced from California in about 1968. It is very well suited to the western areas of the US. O'Henry ripens late in the growing season. Here is a link to the Nature Hills Nursery; where you can order the O'Henry Peach Tree. After you reach their page, simply click on Peach! If you click, there is no obligation to buy! Order O'Henry Peach Trees. And More!. You will leave delange.org. Reliance Peach, prunus persica, is reported to grow under some of the coldest winters, so it may be tried in Zone 4 with some chance of good luck. In fact, Reliance Peach is said to be the most cold-hardy peach tree you can buy. The Reliance Peach Tree It was devoloped by Professor Meader at the New Hampshire Agricultural Experiment Station in 1964. The Reliance peach tree, after exhibiting beautiful pink flowers in early spring, produces a peach with dark red skin splashed over a yellow background. Reliance bears medium-to-large fruit with a sweet, mild flavor. The Reliance freestone peach is good for canning, freezing and fresh use. Here is a link to the Nature Hills Nursery; where you can order the Reliance Peach Tree. After you reach their page, simply click on Peach! If you click, there is no obligation to buy! Order Reliance Peach Trees. And More!. You will leave delange.org. Suncrest Peach, Prunus persica 'Suncrest', is an excellent choice for western areas. It ripens in mid-season about 10 days before Elberta and a few days before Cresthaven. The Suncrest Peach is Large, very firm, fine-flavored, with yellow freestone. It is sweet and very tasty. Mostly red over a yellow background. The Suncrest Peach originated in Fresno, California and was introduced in 1959. The Suncrest Peach is a good shipper that proves to be a good commercial market peach. It requires 700 hours of chilling. Note: Suncrest is highly susceptible to bacteria spot, so should not be planted in those locations where it is a regular problem. Here is a link to the Nature Hills Nursery; where you can order the Suncrest Peach Tree. After you reach their page, simply click on Peach! If you click, there is no obligation to buy! Order Suncrest Peach Trees. And More!. You will leave delange.org. White Lady Peach, Prunus persica, is among the best of the new low acid, high sugar, fresh market white peaches. It was among the top scoring varieties in a blind fruit tasting event. Its harvest season begins in late July. Eighty to 95% of the fruit surface is covered with a dark pinkish red over a cream background. White Lady's average fruit diameter is 2.5 to 3.0 inches. The red-skinned freestone fruits are medium to large, & very firm. The White Lady does not need a pollinator to produce fruit. Here is a link to the Nature Hills Nursery; where you can order the White Lady Peach Tree. After you reach their page, simply click on Peach! If you click, there is no obligation to buy! Order White Lady Peach Trees. And More!. You will leave delange.org. Rootstocks Used For Peaches: We recommend two rootstocks for Arizona Peach Growers: Either the Lovell and Halford. These rootstocks have performed well in a variety of soil types and weather conditions, and are the only rootstocks suitable for Arizona. Other rootstocks, such as Nemaguard and Siberian C, have not proven to be winter hardy in Arizona and are not recommended in our higher elevations. However, Lovell and Halford are not nematode resistant; preplant fumigation is necessary on sandy soils with a history of root-knot or ring nematode problems. A promising new rootstock that performs well on PTSL sites in South Carolina and Georgia may be available within the next few years. Planting Peach Trees In Arizona Decide on the site for your tree/s some months in advance of planting. NOTE: Almost of the peach trees sold are grafted. Therefore there will be a bud union on every tree. The bud union is the location where the scion meets the rootstock. The bud union should not be buried in the ground when planting. ALWAYS keep the bud union about 2 inches above the ground when planting. 1. Decide on which tree to plant. Fruit trees that thrive in Arizona include the apple, cherry, apricot, fig, nectarine, peach, pear, Asian pear, persimmon, Asian plum and Japanese plum. Although there are general guidelines that apply to any fruit tree growing in Arizona, you should also learn the specific requirements of the tree you plant. 2. Choose a nursery tree. The University of Arizona College of Agriculture and Life Sciences recommends you buy a year-old tree with a trunk that's � to � inches in diameter. Select a fruit tree without broken branches or other signs of injury. If you can, check the roots while still in the nursery or soon after you take the tree home. Save the receipt in case you have to exchange it. Roots with soft spots, bugs, mildew and other irregularities are diseased and can't support a tree's development. In the arid Arizona climate, roots should also be irrigated frequently. At the nursery, touch the soil to verify it's moist. If the tree is bare-root, check that the root ball is in a moist medium. 3. Find a sunny planting site with well-drained soil. Test drainage by digging a hole as deep and wide as the tree's root ball. Then, put 5 gallons of water in it. One hour later, fill the hole with water again. If the soil has absorbed the 10 gallons of water within 24 hours, your soil drains well. Let most of the moisture evaporate before you plant your fruit tree. 4. Schedule the planting. In Arizona, plant bare-root fruit trees in February or March. Transplant container trees in September or October. Most fruit trees for sale have bare roots. Keep store-bought trees in the shade and their soil moist until you're ready to plant them. 5. Enlarge the planting hole you made in Step 3 to five times the width of the root ball, but keep it at the same depth. On the bottom, pile soil in the center to form a small mound in the hole. 6. Loosen and cut broken or discolored roots. Trim longer roots to the same size as the others. 7. Put the tree in the hole with the center of the root ball on the mound. Spread the roots down and around it. Backfill the hole with the topsoil you dug out. 8. Water the soil thoroughly and add a 4-inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree. Continue to water every two days during the growing season, giving your tree about 5 gallons of water a week. The University of Arizona Extension Service also recommends you paint the tree trunk with white latex paint to protect it from sunburn. 9. Prune your fruit tree right after you plant it. Cut the top 1/3 and train it into the shape best for the type of tree you have. For example, use the central leader method for apples and pears, and open center if you have peaches and nectarines. Your nursery or extension office offers advice on the right training method for your fruit tree. 10. Fertilize the soil when new growth begins after planting and in the beginning of every growing season, February to March in Arizona. The type and amount of fertilizer depends on the tree you have, but all fruit trees need nitrogen. In addition, spray a formula of chelated zinc and iron on the leaves. 11. Control pests and treat disease. In Arizona, the codling moth and peach tree borers are among about a dozen common insects that attack fruit trees. Diseases include fireblight, brown and crown rot, and powdery mildew. If something is affecting your tree's appearance and development, get help from your local extension office in identifying the problem and treating it. 12. Thin the fruit to keep branches from breaking under heavy weight and to improve fruit quality. Depending on the tree, you'll either prune the flowers as they bloom or the fruit as they mature, spacing them about 6 inches apart. Pruning Peach Trees: Proper training and pruning of fruit trees is essential to the development of a strong tree framework that will support fruit production. Properly shaped trees will yield high-quality fruit much sooner and will live significantly longer. Regular pruning and training will also maximize light penetration to the developing flower buds and fruit. Additionally, a well-shaped tree canopy permits adequate air movement through the tree, which promotes rapid drying to minimize pest problems. Newly Planted Trees: After early winter planting, wait until just before the buds start to grow in the spring to "head", or cut, the unbranched central leader to 36 inches above the soil surface to encourage new lateral branching. When new growth is 3 to 4 inches long, identify the most upright shoot that will continue to be the central leader. Leave it and remove all new shoots growing 3 to 4 inches immediately below this new terminal to prevent competition. This will also encourage lateral growth in the area 6 to 14 inches below the cut tip of the young tree. Branches that form 6 to 14 inches below the cut tip of the tree are less vigorous, less upright, and easier to train as productive scaffold limbs. When the lateral branches, or scaffold branches, are 3 to 6 inches long, they should be spread to a wider crotch angle that will provide a stronger framework for fruit production. Toothpicks or clothespins can be used to prop the young branches out to a 50 to 60 degree angle. This angle will slow vegetative growth, promote lateral branches, and allow the tree to initiate flowers and produce fruit sooner. Open - Center or Vase Training: Peach and nectarine trees are usually trained to the open-center system. Newly planted trees should be headed to about 30 inches in height, just above a lateral branch or bud. If the tree is branched when it comes from the nursery, select 3 to 5 laterals, 4 being ideal, well-spaced up and around the trunk, for the permanent scaffold limbs. The lowest limb should be about 15 inches and the highest about 30 inches from the ground. Cut these back to two buds each, and remove all other laterals. A shoot should not be allowed to grow into the center of the tree. Peaches, nectarines, sour cherries, apricots, Asian pears, and Japanese plums produce easy-to-reach, high quality fruit when pruned to this form. In this style, you select four or five well-placed main branches and then prune out the central leader. This technique limits the height of the tree and creates a spreading crown. You can use this method with any fruit tree, especially those that normally grow too tall to harvest comfortably. 1. Prune young peach trees to encourage good growth and a suitable shape. When you first plant a peach tree, it is important to direct its growth and create a vase shape, keeping the center open to let in the light. 2. Prune the tree to 5 to 9 well-spaced lateral branches away from the tree's center. Branches coming off the side of the shoot are known as laterals and should be left as they produce the spurs for fruit. This will help to establish a solid foundation for future growth. Cut each of the main branches back by approximately one third; the cut should be made just above the dormant shoot. 3. Note that the shoot on the end of the tip is called a terminal and will not ever produce fruit; this can be cut to 5 - 6 buds. Aim to have strong laterals with many spurs. 4. In its second season, cut back new growth halfway on the 5 - 9 lateral branches. On those branches not required as part of the foundation, cut each one back to 4 buds. 5. Shorten pruned shoots after harvesting the fruit in the late summer. This will encourage the new season's growth. 6. Continue looking after the peach tree by removing diseased or dead wood over its lifetime. It is also helpful to remove any branches that are not producing plums. You can cut back to a suitable bud each time. This is such an important subject that we have a seperate text box, below to describe what you should do. Fruit Thinning In General: Allowing the tree to bear too much fruit can be stressful for the tree. Fruit thinning promotes good winter hardiness which is good for all fruit trees and it is particularly beneficial for peach trees. Reducing the number of fruit on a tree will enable the remaining fruit to grow to a larger size and to ripen more quickly. Thinning also prevents limb breakage that occurs with a heavy load of fruit. To counteract over production of fruit, thinning in early summer is commonly done to remove the excess fruit. Apple, pear, peach and plum, all benefit from fruit thinning. The optimum time for fruit thinning is late in spring or early in summer. The sooner thinning is completed, the more it benefits the tree. Fruit thinning is best done by hand when the fruit are half an inch to an inch in diameter, or when they are about the size of a dime. The amount of fruit to remove depends on the number of fruit on the tree. Remove enough fruit so that there is no more than one fruit per cluster for every 8 inches of shoot length on pears, apples and peach trees. On a plum tree, fruit can be spaced 4 inches apart. Pears and apples bear fruit in clusters. Removing fruit so that only one fruit per cluster remains is a common practice. To ensure good fruit size, return bloom for the following year, and to prevent tree breakage, it is necessary to thin the fruit. When you finish thinning, it may seem like very few fruit remain, but you will harvest higher-quality fruit, potentially reduce insect and disease problems, and increase the chances for a full crop the next season. Since you get larger fruit, your number of bushels from each tree will be about the same or sometimes more. This is such an important subject that we have a seperate text box, below to describe what you should do. Harvesting Peaches: There are many articles about how to harvest peaches and we could fill this whole page up with advice. but we want to keep it simple. Peaches must be picked at a stage of development that is advanced enough to allow the fruit to ripen to high culinary quality, yet early enough to minimize bruising and premature softening during storage and transit. Deciding when to pick peaches is often difficult. The best predictor of peach maturity is its background color. Background color of fruit changes from light green to straw-yellow during ripening. Peaches with a fair degree of yellow and enough firmness to ship are said to be mature enough for harvest. Brightening of the red over-color of the skin is another, though less reliable, index of maturity. Red color is typically dull prior to the green to yellow break. When the underlying ground color breaks to yellow, the red brightens and can easily be selected. Color judgments are reliable with many older varieties, but new highly colored varieties with higher percentages of red over-color have diminished the usefulness of color in maturity determination. Peaches are harvested by hand. Usually, trees are picked 3-4 times at 2-3 day intervals, taking only the firm mature fruit at each picking. A break in ground color and a perceptible cushioning of firmness are frequently the best indicators of maturity. Growers and picking crews must be sensitive to changes in fruit shape and size as the fruit moves through its final swell to packing maturity Peaches have a short shelf life of about 2 weeks under most conditions. They are not susceptible to chilling injury so they can be stored at 31-32�F to maximize shelf life. Peach Tree Diseases: Bacterial Spot: This disease is caused by the bacterium Xanthomonas arboricola. It is very unpredictable, meaning it occurs only in some years. Research at NC State University led by Dr. Dave Ritchie is currently underway to try to predict years of high disease pressure. For now, it seems that infection of fruit is most severe in years when frequent periods of rainfall occur 3 to 4 weeks following petal-fall (PF). The current strategy for controlling bacterial spot is to reduce inoculum levels using copper starting at late dormant phase with 2 lb (a.i.) of metallic copper. Copper applications are continued up to Petal Fall, but rates are significantly reduced to avoid phytotoxicity. After Petal Fall, growers spray Mycoshield (oxytetracycline) in weekly intervals or rotate Mycoshield with copper applied at low rates throughout the season. Despite this very aggressive spray program, chemical sprays are not totally effective on highly susceptible cultivars in years when conditions for bacterial spot are very favorable. Timing of spray applications is critical, meaning that applications are most effective if applied prior to a rain but with enough time for drying. Clemson University scientists Dr. Dale Linvill and Dr. Walker Miller have developed a computer model to predict infection periods based on weather data. The model was tested for three years in a row (99-02) in grower orchards from SC and GA under supervision of Dr. Phil Brannen, UGA. Based on his experience, the model seems to have merit especially early in the season but may need some adjustments in regard to forecasts later in the season. Peach Scab: You can count on this disease every year. The fungus (Cladosporium carpophilum) causes spots on developing fruit making the fruit unmarketable. The fungus begins producing conidia about two weeks before shuck split (SS) and continues to do so until 4 to 5 weeks after SS. Protection of the fruit tissue with fungicides is critical during shuck split. Several fungicides are registered for scab control, including Bravo, Abound, Captan, and Sulfur. The compounds differ in their efficacy against scab and market price. The grower has the choice to primarily use the cheaper but less effective Sulfur and risk some scab development in a high scab pressure season or the more expensive products with higher efficacy such as Bravo or Abound. Many growers know that doing the early scab sprays are the most important ones and usually do not hesitate to use Bravo or Abound at that time followed by the less expensive Sulfur in the cover sprays. This program is usually effective against scab if disease pressure is not too high and it is relatively inexpensive. Although scab pressure ceases four weeks after SS, many growers keep adding Sulfur to their spray tanks for �extra insurance�. Brown Rot: Brown rot of peach is caused by the fungus Monilinia fructicola and is probably the major pre and postharvest disease concern. When environmental conditions are conducive, the disease can spread quickly and may cause significant losses. Estimates of disease losses during an epidemic in Georgia for 2001 were $4.3 million in direct losses and $ 1.5 million in fungicide costs. The disease is particularly dangerous if blossom blight is allowed to produce high inoculum levels and if rainfall is prevalent during the growing season up to harvest. Other inoculum sources such as old cankers, peduncles, mummified fruit and green fruit rot may produce sufficient inoculum for epidemic levels of brown rot in any wet year. The prolific production of conidia, which are spread through wind and rain, allows for rapid epidemic development within an orchard or a region. Research has shown that the demethylation inhibitor (DMI) fungicides such as Indar, Orbit, and Elite are still highly effective in controlling the disease although they have been used for almost three decades on a regular basis. Some DMI fungicides perform slightly better than others primarily due to the ability of the fungicides to bind to the fungal target enzyme. A shift of some M. fructicola populations towards reduced sensitivities has been documented, but recent research shows that this shift has not increased during the last six years. Oak Root Rot: Prior to the widespread cultivation of cotton in many parts of the southeastern United States, the land was largely covered with hardwood forests. In this forested land, the oak root rot (ORR) fungus thrived and spread throughout the region. Of course, much of Central Arizona is covered with Oak and Scrub Oak right now! Thus, Oak Root Rot can be a problem in Arizona! Today, the fungus can be found in the soil of most of the prominent peach growing areas - if not everywhere - should you just dig deep enough to find it. The ORR fungus can survive for up to a hundred years in root pieces deep down in the soil where degradation of organic material progresses very slowly. Many growers have a misconception that growing trees on �virgin� peach land (i.e., land where peaches have never been grown before) is a solution to the problem of soil-borne pathogens that kill peach trees. Depending on the depth where the ORR is present and the amount of inoculum that exists in the soil, trees on virgin land can die from ORR well before they live out their productive lifespan. There is currently no rootstock commercially available that is resistant to ORR. Although GuardianTM rootstock is very helpful on sites with Peach Tree Short Life (PTSL), it is also very susceptible to ORR. Once living peach tree roots reach the infected root pieces remaining in the soil, they become infected. The fungus then migrates up the root system to the crown of the tree, which it essentially girdles and kills. The tree subsequently dies. On existing peach sites where trees have died from ORR previously, it is highly likely that the inoculum level in the soil is greater and closer to the soil surface than in �virgin� land. Thus, one would expect trees on replant sites to die even sooner. There Is Basically Nothing The Grower Can Do To Rescue Oak Root Rot Infected Trees ! ! The only control option is to prevent the spread of the disease by pulling out adjacent, healthy trees. Even this method has its limitations and there is a cost in terms of lost production. The fungus, once established, will infect neighboring trees by root to root contact. The earlier the grower recognizes the existence of this disease in the orchard, the less damaging and more successful will be your option of prevention provided there is not a tremendous amount of inoculum at the site and only a few isolated trees are infected. There are several projects underway currently to address the growing problem of ORR to peach production in the southeastern U.S. These include the use of biological control against ORR, the potential development of a resistant rootstock through genetic engineering, and future work involving various cultural practices. Peach Tree Pests: Various pest organisms, primarily arthropods (insects and mites), diseases, weeds, and mammals are associated with peach production and they cause significant economic losses to commercial fruit growers. The focus of this guide is on arthropod pests and diseases of peach. Insect pests found in peach orchards can be classified into two groups depending upon which plant part is attacked. Direct pests are those insects that feed on peach fruits, while indirect pests are those that attack leaves, trunk, and other parts of the tree. Few insects are pests on peach trees in Arizona. But, they cause damage to the peach flowers, fruit, twigs, limbs and trunk. Some of the most common of these are Plum Curculio, Peachtree Borer, Lesser Peachtree Borer, Shothole Borer, Leaf-Footed Plant Bugs and Stink Bugs, Catfacing Insects, San Jose Scale, and the Green June Beetle. Plum Curculio (Conotrachelus nenuphar): This adult weevil causes injury to fruit of peach tree fruit during April and May. The wounds resulting from feeding and egg laying by the over-wintering beetles appear as crescent shaped scars. Internal injury to the fruit occurs from larval burrowing; most of these fruit will drop to the ground in June. You can control the pest by jarring the sluggish beetles from the trees in the morning and capturing them on sheets. Destroying all infested fruits that fall to the ground is helpful. Cultivation of the soil containing the pupae destroys many of them. Peach Tree Borer (Synanthedon exitiosa): Their moths are most prevalent in July, August, and September. They lay eggs on tree trunks and foliage of sprouts. After the brown eggs hatch (in 9 to 10 days), larvae make their way to the base of the tree. They bore into and feed on the inner bark and cambium layer. Look for gum exudation at the base of the tree. The insects winter as larvae in burrows in the soil at the bases of trees. In the spring, they complete their growth and spin tough silken cocoons covered with their sawdust borings and soil particles. These are found about an inch below the soil surface in an upright position near the base of the tree from June to September. Because the larvae feed on the inner bark and cambium layer, peach tree borers block the movement of water and carbohydrates in the tree. An infestation of borers causes tip and limb dieback and eventual tree death. To control the Peach Tree Borer, you can first cultivate healthy trees. If they attack your trees; remove and destroy any larvae found in the tree. Dig them out with a knife, or crush the larvae with a wire run into their holes. Scrape away the soil from the top three inches of the main underground root to expose the pupal cases to the elements. Garlic planted around the tree reportedly repels the moths. Another method is to apply paradichlorobenzene crystals around the trunk of the tree in September and October. Smooth the soil at the base of the tree. Spread the crystals in a complete band about 2 inches around the tree. Cover the crystals with a dirt mound to a sloping depth of several inches. This mound keeps gas in the soil and lets it enter the channels of the tree killing the borers. Another method is to place pheromone traps in trees in late spring - early summer, to determine when moths are emerging from cocoons. Then use trunk sprays when you know that the moths are active and thus laying eggs on the tree. The trunk sprays will kill eggs and larvae before they enter the tree. You can also use natural controls. Common parasites include braconids (Bracon sanninoideae), bombyliids (Villa lateralis), and the egg parasite, Telenomus quaintancei. Predators include ants, chrysopid larvae, spiders, moles, birds, mice, and skunks. Lesser Peach Tree Borer (Synanthedon exitiosa): The lesser peachtree borer infests stonefruit trees higher up the bole and on scaffold branches. It is less common in Arizona. Simply inspect the large branches of the trees for sap exudation and treat as needed using the same principles listed above for the Peach Tree Borer (Synanthedon exitiosa). Peach Twig Borer (Anarsia lineatella): This insect attacks peach, trees early in the year. When growth of the tree begins in the spring, the larvae of this moth emerge and bore into twigs and buds. Their activity stops growth or kills the shoot. Second and third generations feed in the fruit. This insect is not a problem in trees that are sprayed each year at the delayed dormant period. Shothole Borer: This insect problem can happen in Arizona, but it is rare. You will find small round holes in twigs and branches on your tree, The best cure is to remove and destroy all dead or dying wood. Leaf-footed Plant Bugs and Stink Bugs: Plant bugs and stink bugs vary greatly in color, size and shape. They feed by sucking sap from plants. Their feeding is very destructive to developing fruit. If the damaged fruit does not fall from the tree, it becomes scarred and malformed as it grows. This is called �catfacing� injury. Cold weather may cause similar injury. Most severe catfacing is done in the period immediately following bloom. Most sucking insects that attack peach trees overwinter as adults in protected places, such as in the ground debris or between the leaves of various plants. Some control may be obtained by destroying overwintering sites as well as destroying legumes and other broad-leaf weeds that serve as hosts for sucking bugs. White or yellow sticky traps can also be placed in trees. Catfacing Insects: Cat-facing insects are sporadic pests in orchards, but can cause severe fruit injury when populations are high. Cat-facing adults and nymphs feed on the surface of fruit causing unsightly dimpling, deformity, and scarring. You should monitor your trees in the spring (from pre-bloom through early fruit development) and in the late summer to fall by visual observation, beating tray, or sweep net. To control this pest you can managie alternate plant hosts and weeds in the orchard ground cover; use insecticides in orchards with a history of fruit damage, or when there are high bug population. Orchard border and spot sprays are preferred. San Jose Scale: San Jose Scale is a sporadic pest that can even occur in well maintained commercial fruit orchards. Severe infestations can kill limbs, cause deformed and poor colored fruit, reduce yields, and eventually kill the tree. Its adult and immature scales feed on peach tree limbs, fruit, and leaves by sucking the tree sap. You can monitor the peach fruit during picking and packing (check cull bins); and monitor their tree limbs during pruning for signs of scale and their injury. Your first opportunity for the scale control is during the delayed dormant period of your trees growth. Apply a superior oil plus insecticide at this time. Then later on, if a summer spray is necessary, time your sprays to target the crawler stage. The crawler stage is the most vulnerable to control treatments. Green June Beetle, Cotinis nitida: This is the same beetle that we all loved as a child. We would catch them, tie a thread to one leg, and let them fly in circles above us! The humming sound was fantastic! But, now that we are older, Oh My! The adult Green June Beetles mate, lay eggs, and feed on sap and the ripe fruits of many of our fruit trees and vines, including peaches. Beetles feed in groups that readily devour fruit. Beetle excrement fouls fruit. Green June beetles most often reach economically damaging levels where pastures are adjacent to orchards. Feeding on fruit extends adult longevity and results in increased egg-laying capacity. Once a sweet food source is located, the adults feed and emit an aggregation odor that attracts more adults to feed as a group. It becomes difficult to prevent fruit damage because adults continuously move into a fruit planting. Control is necessarily dependent on insecticides with short pre-harvest intervals before beetle populations reach critical levels. Here is what you need to do to control Green June Beetles on peaches or many other fruits: Monitor your trees or orchard. When adult Green June Beetle flights begin in adjacent pastures in late June or July, it is prudent to begin checking ripening peaches for beetle feeding. You may find it useful to monitor for adult beetles by placing trays of fermenting fruit or watermelon on the orchard or yard perimeter. Once adult June beetle flights begin, check several times a week for fruit feedings in these trays. Apply an insecticide when the beetle attack first begins, and reapply if beetles continue to enter the orchard. Border sprays can be a valuable control option. Insecticide use must be carefully timed to conform to pre-harvest intervals. The use of insecticide-treated fermenting fruit trays, placed every 50 feet around the orchard or yard perimeter, can significantly reduce the number of beetles entering the orchard or yard to damage peaches. It is, however, important to take care to avoid poisoning non-target species of insects. Here is a link to our page of fruit tree pests in Arizona; where you read descriptions and see pictures of the common fruit tree pests of Arizona. You also can learn about how to kill or control the Pests. Common Fruit Tree Pests Of Arizona. Not all insects and mites in orchards are harmful. Many arthropods, such as lady beetles, predaceous bugs, spiders, and predator mites benefit the grower by feeding on pest insects and mites. Bees also fall into this category of beneficial arthropods by aiding peach pollination. our next subject covers the beneficial insects. Beneficial Insects: Not all insects found in an peach orchard are pests. Many organisms benefit the grower by eating or parasitizing pests in the orchard. These organisms are known as beneficials, natural enemies, or biological control agents. They may be native or introduced from other areas. Beneficial natural enemies (insects and mites) that may occur in a peach orchard could be classified as predators or parasitoids. Predators are those that attack, kill, and feed directly on a pest (prey). Examples of common orchard predators are ladybeetles, flies, lacewings, wasps, bugs, ants, spiders, and predator mites. Parasitoids are insects that lay eggs on or in a pest (host). The developing larva lives and feeds on the host, parasitizing and eventually killing it. Examples include parasitic wasps such as the egg parasite, Trichogramma sp. Bees are a different class of beneficial insects in the orchard in that they benefit the grower by aiding pollination. It is important that growers are able to recognize, identify, and conserve beneficials in their orchard. Conservation of beneficial organisms is a basic tenet of an ecologically sound pest management strategy. Conservation or enhancement of beneficials can be achieved through judicious use of pesticides such as spraying only when and where needed, accurate timing of sprays, and selecting pesticides that are least toxic to beneficials. For Example: Many growers now place colonies of the Blue Orchard Mason bees in their orchards to pollinate their crops for maximum production. Since the author of this article is a beekeeper, George DeLange, has one colony of honeybees on his property to aid in pollination. The side benefit is fresh honey! Quick Notes: Height: About 13 � 33 feet tall & 10 - 25 feet wide. Dwarfs Are Available. Leaves: Blue-green to green in color, Lanceolate, 2.8 � 6.3 inches long, 0.79 �1.2 inches broad, pinnately veined. Flowers: White with a pink tinge that gradually fades, five petaled, and 2.5 to 3.5 centimetres ( 0.98 to 1.4 inches ) in diameter. Flowering Time: Spring, before the leaves. Fruit: Technically, a drupe. The fruit has yellow or whitish flesh, a delicate aroma, and a skin that is velvety. The flesh is very delicate and easily bruised in some cultivars, but is fairly firm in some commercial varieties, especially when green. The single, large seed is red-brown, oval shaped, approximately 1.3�2 cm long, and is surrounded by a wood-like husk. Found: Throughout Arizona. If you buy a peach tree, make sure it grows well in your USDA Zone. Hardiness: USDA Zone 4a: to -34.4 �C (-30 �F) USDA Zone 4b: to -31.6 �C (-25 �F) USDA Zone 5a: to -28.8 �C (-20 �F) USDA Zone 5b: to -26.1 �C (-15 �F) USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3 �C (-10 �F) USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 �C (-5 �F) USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 �C (0 �F) USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 �C (5 �F) USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 �C (10 �F) USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 �C (15 �F) USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 �C (20 �F) USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 �C (25 �F) Soil pH requirements: 5.6 to 6.0 (acidic) 6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic) 6.6 to 7.5 (neutral) 7.6 to 7.8 (mildly alkaline) Sun Exposure: Full Sun Elevation: 0 to 7,000 Feet. Habitat: Landscapes or Orchards. Miscellaneous: Because of Arizona's wide range of elevations; if you buy a peach tree, make sure it grows well in your USDA Zone.