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Potato, Solanum tuberosum

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Potato, Solanum tuberosum. Growing In Field. - Photo Courtesy Of Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
Potato, Solanum tuberosum. Growing In Field. - Photo Courtesy Of Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
Potato, Solanum tuberosum. Eight Week Old Plant.
Growing In Raised Bed Garden. - Photo Yarnell, Arizona. June 17, 2011.
Potato, Solanum tuberosum. Flowers.
Photo Courtesy Of Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
Potato, Solanum tuberosum. Flowers.
Photo Courtesy Of Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
Potato, Solanum tuberosum. Growing In Field.
Photo Courtesy Of Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
Potato, Solanum tuberosum. Growing In Field.
Photo Courtesy Of Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
Flower Structure. Potato, Solanum tuberosum.
Photo Yarnell, Arizona. June 18, 2011.
Leaf Structure. Potato, Solanum tuberosum.
Photo Yarnell, Arizona. June 18, 2011.

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Potato
Solanum tuberosum, Nightshade or Potato Family (Solanaceae), Commonly Known As: Potato. AKA: Papas, Solanum andigena, or Andean; and tuberosum, or Chilean.

EARLIEST HISTORY OF THE POTATO

About 18 years ago, archaeologists have found potato remains that date back to about 3,000 B.C.; in the ancient ruins of Caral, Peru. Caral is considered the oldest civilization in the America's and perhaps the third oldest civilization on Earth. It is located in the Supe River Valley of Peru. Its people are called the Caral civilization or Norte Chico civilization.

Experts agree that the potato was first domesticated on the north shores of Lake Titicaca, in what is now part of Peru and Bolivia, an area containing the widest variety of cultivated and wild potato species. A secondary centre of domestication is recognised in the island of Chilo�, in southern Chile.

One theory suggests that ancestors of the Incas took the potato from the Andean highlands, where it was domesticated 8,000 years ago, to Chilo�, where it adapted to the longer daylight hours in the southern part of the continent, but this remains unproven.

The Inca became the powerful civilization in Peru at about 1430 C.E. and then fell from power in 1525 C.E. when they were conquered by the Spanish.

The Incas grew and ate potatoes; they also worshipped them. They buried potatoes with their dead, they hid potatoes in concealed bins for use in case of either war or famine, they dried them, they carried them on long journeys to eat along the way (either dried or soaked in a stew).

The ancient Inca potatoes had dark purplish skins and yellow flesh. The Incas called the potato "papas," as they do today.

Here is a translation of the Inca prayer that historians say they used to worship the potato.

"O Creator! Thou who givest life to all things and hast made men that they may live, and multiply. Multiply also the fruits of the earth, the potatoes and other food that thou hast made, that men may not suffer from hunger and misery."

The Spanish conquistadors first encountered the potato when they arrived in Peru in 1532 in search of gold.

Then, in 1540 - Pedro de Cieza de Leon (1518�1560), a Spanish Conquistador and historian, first wrote about the potato in his chronicles, "Chronicles of Peru", in 1540.

Then, in 1565 - the Spanish explorer and conqueror, Gonzalo Jiminez de Quesada (1499-1579), took the potato into Spain in lieu of the gold that he did not find. The Spanish though that they were a kind of truffle and called them "tartuffo." Potatoes were soon a standard supply item on the Spanish ships; it was also noticed that the sailors who ate the papas (potatoes) did not suffer from scurvy.

From this brief history, it quickly spread around the world;becoming the cool-season vegetable that is now one of the most important staple crops in the human diet around the world.

The white potato is referred to as the "Irish potato" because it is associated with the potato famine in Ireland in the 19th century.

There are about five thousand potato varieties worldwide. Three thousand of them are found in the Andes alone, mainly in Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, Chile, and Colombia. They belong to eight or nine species, depending on the taxonomic school. Apart from the five thousand cultivated varieties, there are about 200 wild species and subspecies, many of which can be cross-bred with cultivated varieties, which has been done repeatedly to transfer resistances to certain pests and diseases from the gene pool of wild species to the gene pool of cultivated potato species. Genetically modified varieties have met public resistance in the United States and in the European Union.

The International Potato Center, based in Lima, Peru, holds an ISO-accredited collection of potato germplasm.

The major species grown worldwide is Solanum tuberosum, and modern varieties of this species are the most widely cultivated. There are also four diploid species: S. stenotomum, S. phureja, S. goniocalyx, and S. ajanhuiri. There are two triploid species: S. chaucha and S. juzepczukii. There is one pentaploid cultivated species: S. curtilobum.

There are two major subspecies of Solanum tuberosum: andigena, or Andean; and tuberosum, or Chilean. The Andean potato is adapted to the short-day conditions prevalent in the mountainous equatorial and tropical regions where it originated. The Chilean potato is adapted to the long-day conditions prevalent in the higher latitude region of southern Chile, especially on Chilo� Archipelago where it is thought to have originated. Genetic testing done in 2005 showed that both subspecies derive from a common ancestor from the area of southern Peru.[20]

Most modern potatoes grown in North America arrived through European settlement and not independently from the South American sources. However, at least one wild potato species, Solanum fendleri, is found as far north as Texas and used in breeding for resistance to a nematode species that attacks cultivated potatoes. A secondary center of genetic variability of the potato is Mexico, where important wild species that have been used extensively in modern breeding are found, such as Solanum demissum, which is resistant to the devastating late blight disease. Another relative native to this area, Solanum bulbocastanum, has been used to genetically engineer the potato to resist potato blight.

COMMENTS REGARDING ALL POTATOES IN GENERAL:

Potatoes yield abundantly with little effort, and adapt readily to diverse climates as long as the climate is cool and moist enough for the plants to gather sufficient water from the soil to form the starchy tubers. Potatoes do not keep very well in storage and are vulnerable to molds that feed on the stored tubers, quickly turning them rotten. By contrast, grain can be stored for several years without much risk of rotting.

Potato plants are herbaceous perennials that grow about 24 inches high, depending upon the variety, the culms then die back after flowering.

They bear white, pink, red, blue, or purple flowers with yellow stamens. In general, the tubers of varieties with white flowers have white skins, while those of varieties with colored flowers tend to have pinkish skins.

Potatoes are cross-pollinated mostly by insects, including bumblebees, which carry pollen from other potato plants, but a substantial amount of self-fertilizing occurs as well. Tubers form in response to decreasing day length, although this tendency has been minimized in commercial varieties.[17]

Potatoes are not roots but specialized underground storage stems called "tubers." Maximal tuber formation occurs at soil temperatures between 60� and 70�F. Note: The tubers fail to form when the soil temperature reaches 80�F.

Potatoes withstand light frosts in the spring and can be grown throughout most of the country in the cooler part of the growing season, but they prefer the northern tier of states for maximal yield and quality.

There are more than 100 varieties of commercial potatoes. White-skinned (actually very light brown) and red-skinned varieties with white flesh are the most common in home gardens. Some russets and yellow-fleshed types are also grown. Russet Burbank is the most important commercial variety produced in the United States, but the weather over most of the country is too warm and the moisture fluctuation too great for the production of smooth tubers and good yields. Common garden varieties offer better taste, texture and cooking quality for home use anyway.

You can buy seed potatoes from either a nursery, or catalog. Potato plants are rarely, if ever, sold in nurseries.

PLANTING AND GROWING POTATOES::

When to Plant:
Potatoes are among the earliest vegetables planted in the garden. Early, midseason and late varieties all may be planted in March or early April. Planting too early in damp, cold soils makes it more likely that seed pieces rot before they can grow. Potatoes planted in March also may be frozen back to the ground by late frosts. Plants usually recover fully, but the blackened shoots are always demoralizing to the gardener. Medium-early plantings, when soils have dried and warmed, may do as well as extremely early, winter-defying plantings. Midseason and late varieties may be planted as late as the first of July. Late potatoes are best for winter storage.

Spacing & Depth:

Potatoes are started from "seed pieces" rather than from true seed. These seed pieces may be small whole potatoes or potatoes that are cut into 1-1/2 to 2 ounce pieces. Plant the pieces soon after cutting. Be sure that there is at least one good "eye" in each seed piece. Some garden centers and seed suppliers sell "potato eyes" that weigh less than an ounce. These may be too small for optimal production. Small, whole, certified seed potatoes are often the best choice for home gardeners.

Plant seed pieces 10 to 12 inches apart and cover in a furrow between 1 and 3 inches deep. Space rows 24 to 36 inches apart. The 24 inch spacing is often beneficial because the plants shade the soil and prevent high soil temperatures that inhibit tuber development.

"Straw Potatoes":

Potatoes grown by a special cultural method in that they are not hilled or cultivated after planting are called "straw potatoes." The seed pieces and rows should be spaced the same as for conventional cultivation, but the seed pieces are planted at the soil surface. Place loose straw 4 to 6 inches deep over the seed pieces and between the rows. Potato sprouts should emerge through the straw cover. Cultivation should not be necessary. Pull any weeds that manage to emerge through the straw cover and add more straw through the season if decomposition starts to thin the layer. Harvest by carefully removing the straw and picking up the tubers that lie on the soil surface. In addition to weed control, strawing has several other advantages. The straw keeps the soil temperature more uniform and about 10�F cooler, reduces water loss and results in better-shaped tubers. It is usually more rewarding to straw late varieties than early ones because there is a longer period for tuber development. Many gardeners who grow potatoes for competition in exhibits and fairs use the strawing method because the potatoes are of excellent size, color, shape and smoothness.

Care

The soil should be fertile and well drained. Clay soils should be improved with organic matter and plowed deeply in the fall. If space allows, a cover crop such as clover, buckwheat or winter rye grown in the potato bed the year before potatoes are planted improves soil structure, organic-matter content and subsequent potato production.

Mulch is usually beneficial in growing potatoes. After the potato plants have emerged, organic mulch can be applied to conserve moisture, help keep down weeds and cool the soil. Some gardeners cover rows of early potatoes with clear plastic film at planting to warm the soil and promote early growth when the soil temperature is low. When the plants emerge, remove the film to allow the plants to grow unrestricted.

After the potatoes break the surface of the ground, gradually build up a low ridge of loose soil by cultivation and hoeing toward the plants. This ridge, which may become 4 to 6 inches high by summer, reduces the number of "sunburned" (greened) tubers. The object of potato cultivation is to eliminate competition from weeds, to loosen and aerate the soil and to ridge the row. Misshapen potatoes develop in hard, compact soil. Use extreme caution when hoeing near potato plants because developing tubers are easily cut and ruined.

Irrigate to assure uniform moisture while the tubers are developing. A uniform moisture supply also helps to cool the ground and eliminate knobs caused by secondary growth.

Preparing the ground for planting potatoes:
1. Choose a site that gets full sun and has light, well-drained soil that's high in phosphorus and potassium and very low in nitrogen (which encourages lush foliage growth at the expense of the tubers). If your soil is very heavy, grow your potatoes in raised beds.

2 . Dig the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches and remove rocks and other debris that could obstruct the tubers as they grow. Work in plenty of compost to ensure the right soil texture, but avoid adding manure, which can cause a disease called scab.

3. Plant potatoes in USDA zone 6 and colder two to four weeks before the last expected frost and when the soil temperature is at least 40 degrees F. In zones 7 and 8, plant anytime from early February to March, choosing varieties that will mature before the hot days of summer. Farther south, plant around the end of September for harvesting in December and January.

4. Plant 2-inch-diameter, "B" size (the most common) seed potatoes whole. If you get larger ones, cut them into pieces with two or three eyes each.

5. Use the deep-planting method for the lowest-maintenance potato patch: Simply plant the seed pieces, cut side down, 12 inches apart and 7 to 8 inches deep. The stems will work their way to the surface, along the way forming spuds on underground stems called stolons.

6 . Use the mulching method for the easiest harvesting: Dig a shallow trench and set in the pieces, cut side down, 12 inches apart, and cover them with about 4 inches of soil. Pile a thick blanket of mulch around the stems when the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, leaving the foliage exposed. Keep mulching as the plants grow. The potatoes will form inside the layer of mulch.

7. Harvest small, early potatoes as soon as seven to eight weeks after planting. Harvest the main crop about two weeks after the tops have died back and before the first hard frost. More detailed information will follow.

POTATO POPULAR VARITIES:

The following varieties are well adapted to a variety of conditions. If possible, use northern-grown seed potatoes that are certified disease free.

Early:

Irish Cobbler (light brown skin; often irregularly shaped)

Norland (red skin, smooth, resistant to scab)

Midseason

Red Pontiac (red skin, deep eyes)

Viking (red skin, very productive)

Late:

Katahdin (light brown skin; smooth; resistant to some viruses, verticillium, bacterial wilts)

Kennebec (light brown skin, smooth; resistant to some viruses, late blight)

Green Mountain is an old semi-rough white variety noted for its great taste. Due to a fairly high number of misshapen tubers, it has all but disappeared from commercial production. For dependable production in all seasons and the greatest-tasting baked potato ever, Green Mountain is worth the effort to find certified seed.

Yukon Gold is the most famous of the new wave of yellow-fleshed varieties now available. Long popular in Europe, these have good flavor and moist flesh, which many people claim requires less of the fattening condiments required by dry-as-dust Russet Burbanks. Yukon Gold is a very early bearer of large, round, attractive tubers with a hint of pink around the eyes. Many grocery stores around the country now feature some name-brand version of "golden" potatoes, usually this variety. If the flavor of these market potatoes suits you, look for seed of Yukon Gold.

POTATO HARVESTING INFORMATION:

Harvest potatoes after the vines have died. Handle as gently as possible during harvest. Because the tubers develop 4 to 6 inches beneath the soil surface, a shovel or spading fork is a useful tool for digging potatoes.

Potatoes for use in early summer ("new potatoes")may be dug before the vines die (usually in July). When the potatoes reach 1 to 2 inches in size, you may wish to dig a few hills to use for soup or to cook with creamed peas or to butter and roast.

Late potatoes are usually dug in August or early September. They keep in the garage or basement for several weeks in their natural dormancy. Store over the winter in a dark room at a temperature between 38� and 40�F with high humidity. Check periodically for spoilage. Temperatures below 38�F cause internal damage to the tubers.

CONTROLLING INSECTS & PESTS THAT THREATEN POTATOES INFORMATION:

Here is a link to a very detailed list of potato insects, pests, & diseases.

OTHER USEFUL QUESTIONS, HINTS, AND SUGGESTIONS.

Questions & Answers

Q. Should I save some of my potatoes for seed?

A. No, unless you are saving seed of an heirloom variety not commercially available. Saving your own seed potatoes can lead to a buildup of viruses and diseases. Whenever possible, plant seed potatoes certified to be free from certain viruses and diseases.

Q. My potato plants flowered and formed green fruits that resemble small tomatoes. What are they?

A. These small seed balls are the fruits that contain the true seeds. They are not edible. Except for breeding purposes, growing potato plants from the true seeds in these fruits is a troublesome and unrewarding exercise.

Q. What causes green skin on my potatoes?

A. The green areas on tubers develop where the potato was exposed to the sun. This condition occurs when the potatoes were not planted deeply enough or not covered with straw. The green portions taste bitter because they contain a moderately poisonous alkaloid. These green areas should be cut off and discarded. Exposure of potato tubers to fluorescent light or sunlight causes greening during storage.

Q. How should potatoes that are cut into seed pieces be cured?

A. They can be cured by holding them for a week at 60� to 65�F with high humidity (85 percent or higher). This treatment is of questionable value for the home gardener.

Q. Can I make chips from homegrown potatoes?

A. Yes. Almost any potato variety can be used to make chips when the potatoes are freshly dug and starchy. Commercial chips are made from selected varieties that are naturally high in solids, carefully handled and properly stored to preserve starch and avoid buildup of sugars. Chips made from potatoes stored at low temperatures for long periods are brown or have a dark ring because they contain excessive amounts of sugar.

Q. Can I use grocery store potatoes for planting?

A. Probably not. They may have been treated with a sprout retardant, in which case, they will not grow. Even if they are sprouting, they have not been inspected and certified free of disease. While results occasionally may be acceptable, the risk of introducing a nematode, disease, or other pest is much higher than from quality-certified seed potatoes.

Potatoes are the most popular vegetables in the United States. Although there are more than 100 known varieties, about six varieties make up the entire commercial market. Home gardeners are able to taste some of the wonderful flavors and textures unknown to the average person. Some varieties are not considered marketable because they do not ship well or are prone to disease.

Potatoes are generally classified as round red, round white, oblong white and yellow-fleshed. New potatoes are any variety of freshly dug young potato that hasn't been stored. Potatoes can be harvested at any stage of development from marble-size to full maturity. Potato size at maturity depends on the variety planted. Potatoes should be firm, free of soft spots, and free of disease when harvested.

If potatoes start to sprout, they can still be eaten. Remove the sprouts and discard. If the potato is still firm, it is good to eat. Shriveled, wrinkled, sprouting potatoes should not be eaten. Green-skin potatoes have been exposed to too much light. A mildly toxic alkaloid called solanin forms in the skin. The green skin can simply be peeled away. Although the remaining potato is safe to eat, it will not be at its best.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits;

Even stored under the best conditions, potatoes lose some quality the longer they are stored. For best results, store in a cool, dark place with good air circulation. Do not refrigerate potatoes. Cold temperatures convert starch to sugar, giving potatoes an uncharacteristic sweet taste. The sugar caramelizes during cooking producing brown potatoes and an off flavor. Potatoes can be stored for a week or two at room temperature (65 to 70 degrees) with good results.

Potatoes were once considered just a dietary source of starch. Although potatoes do contain a goodly amount of carbohydrate (starch and sugar) they are also a storehouse for many vitamins and minerals. With the exception of vitamin A, potatoes have at least some of just about every nutrient, including fiber. Potatoes are relatively low in calories, unless they are eaten with butter, sour cream and mayonnaise. Or cooked in grease, like french fried. Baked with olive oil sprinkled on them, is a great substitute for french fries. Tastes almost the same, only better!

Nutrition Facts (1 oblong white, baked, about 2" x 4-3/4"):

Calories 145
Protein 3.06 grams
Carbohydrates 33.63 grams
Dietary Fiber 2.34 grams
Calcium 7.80 mg
Iron .55 mg
Magnesium 39.00 mg
Potassium 609.96 mg
Phosphorus 78.00 mg
Vitamin C 19.97 mg
Niacin 2.17 mg
Folate 14.20 mcg

Preparation & Serving:

Potatoes can be boiled, fried, steamed, grilled or baked. All potatoes should be cooked or placed in water immediately after peeling to prevent discoloration. To peel or not to peel is generally a result of the preparation method or personal preference. The exceptions are thin-skinned new potatoes, which should not be peeled.

Potato varieties should be selected based on their use in a recipe. New potatoes are moist and waxy and are best for steaming, boiling and in salads. Oblong mature white potatoes are rather dry and starchy. They are the most popular french-fried potato and they are great for baking and mashing. Round red potatoes have a rather waxy texture making them ideal for boiling and mashing. Round white potatoes are thin-skinned and hold their shape in salads as well as boiling and roasting. Yellow-fleshed potatoes are good for steaming, roasting, and mashing.

Fresh garden herbs that enhance the flavor of potatoes include basil, chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, lovage, marjoram, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon and thyme.

Home Preservation:

Potatoes do not freeze, dry or can with good results. For long term storage of late fall crops, store at temperatures of 45 to 50�F. After harvesting, place in the sun for two to three hours to dry, brush off the soil, do not wash until ready to use. If storage temperatures are too high, potatoes tend to soften and sprout. Store in a dark place to prevent greening and layer between sheets of newspaper so if one spoils it will not spread to the whole lot.

Type: Vegetable.
Zones: USDA 4 - 9.
Height: About 3 - 3 feet tall at maturity.
Spread: About 1- 2 feet wide.
Flowers: Violet, blue, white. The flowers have 5 lobes, 5 stamens, and are 1 inch in diameter. The flowers have 5 fused petals, � inch across, with bright yellow stamens. Flowers grow on stalks in clusters or singly at the end of stems or branches..
Blooming Time: Spring through Fall.
Leaves: Green in color. oblong to lance-shaped with wavy edges. The leaves are 1 to 4 inches long by 1 inch wide.
Elevation: 0 - 10,000+ feet.
Light: Sun.
Habitat: Mulched areas. Well-drained loam or clay soils. Prefer pH of 5.5 to 7.0.
Native: Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Ecuador.
Miscellaneous: Photos Taken June 17, 2011 In Yarnell, Arizona. .



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